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Archive for June, 2005


Prada Menswear Spring/Summer 2006

Tuesday, June 28th, 2005
By Manolo

Manolo says, Ayyyyyyy! Our Muse the Miuccia she has again triumphed with her clothing for the men. Here is the article from the beautiful Samurai Suzy about her show yesterday in the Milan.

In her fresh, clean-cut show and in her wise words, Miuccia Prada put into perspective the malaise pervading high fashion menswear, which other Italian designers have tried to face off with vivid color and graphic pattern for summer 2006.

“Fashion should become more egalitarian. I am not interested in dealing with a few sophisticated people,” Prada said. “Crisscrossing everything is the main issue: the need to face the huge world and to appeal to new countries and new customers.”

So for Prada, Monday’s show was a stark return to basics: to the skinny silhouette, to fabrics treated with techno shine, to nylon work-wear, to hosiery-fine sweaters and to symbols to identify the label. And being Prada, with her penchant for a communist/populist aesthetic, that meant stars (but not necessarily red) printed on shirts, neckties or decorating the new must-have nylon backpack – along with hearts to put soul into a sober collection.

The result was a show of those perfectly judged and wearable clothes on which Prada built its empire. But the reprise did not include her much-copied brief coat, short boxy suits or sour colors. In fact, Prince of Wales tailoring was classic, and there was a wry sweetness to an aqua blue suit, to a dusty pink shirt or a moss green sweater. Pants with softening pleats offered a new cut.

Why is Prada so often ahead of the pack? Because she has an ability to invent new menswear classics as if they had always existed. After a few seasons of kooky effects, any piece of this show – and that includes the head-wrap hats – could have walked right out on silvered sneakers or smart leather shoes onto the Milan streets. It was fashion for the real world and for its future.

Manolo says, this it is exactly right, exactly the reason the Manolo he loves the Miuccia, she makes the clothes for the real world. Her aesthetic it is egalitarian, and mostly functional, and yet, at the same of the time, it is also classic.

Here are the few of the pictures from the show.

Prada, Spring/Summer 2006, Milan
This sweater and pants and shirt, they are to the mind of the Manolo, superb. Perhaps they should not belong in the Spring/Summer line, but they are beautiful, and completely wearable.

Prada, Spring/Summer 2006, Milan
Again, this it is fashion for the real world. This, it is the way the young men they would really dress, in this casual manner.

Prada, Spring/Summer 2006, Milan
The Manolo he would not pair this shirt with this suit, but then the Manolo he is sometimes the overly stuffy traditionalist. However, having said that, the Manolo he is in the love with this suit.

Prada, Spring/Summer 2006, Milan
This, as with many of the shirts in this collection, it is something that one could wear only if one was both young and very handsome. However, these pants, they would be suitable for one, like the Manolo, with the more traditional middle-aged male figure.

Prada, Spring/Summer 2006, Milan

And finally, the appearance of our muse, peeking out from behind the curtain in her customary and charming pose.

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The Decline of Helmut Lang

Sunday, June 26th, 2005
By Manolo

Manolo says, here is the link to long article on the aftermath of the Helmut Lang leaving his firm after its purchase by the Prada.

There’s little doubt about Helmut Lang’s major influence over the fashion of the last 15 years. Consumers can thank him for flat-front pants, the number of buttons on men’s suits — first three, more recently two — and the spiraling prices of designer jeans and T-shirts. An entire culture of prestige denim was born from Lang’s low-rise jeans with intricate washes, for which he dared to charge close to $200 in the 1990s.

So powerful was his creative leadership that when he said he would show his collections in Manhattan ahead of European rivals, most American designers followed suit, and New York Fashion Week was permanently rescheduled.

Yet the designer, who was once a driving force of minimalism, has found himself in a state of free fall, with his empire being dismantled piece by piece.

Four months ago Lang left the company that bears his name after long-running discontent with the Prada Group, which owns it. In early May, Prada began talks to sell off the business, describing it as unprofitable. In late May, Prada told managers at the designer’s stores in New York and Paris they would be shuttered in July.

[...]

Publicly, Prada executives attributed the slide to declining tourism related to fear of terrorism and severe acute respiratory syndrome and to the strong euro, but not to what some retailers now acknowledge, that Lang’s dedication to minimalism was absolute even as consumer tastes evolved.

“Look at Dolce & Gabbana, Cavalli, Dior and Chloe,” said Carla Sozzani, the owner of 10 Corso Como, an influential store in Milan, where Prada is based. “That has nothing to do with Helmut Lang. The whole concept of minimalism was very good in the early ’90s, but then for the past several years, people were not interested in that look.”

Another reason for the decline in sales was Prada’s cancellation of a license to an outside company to make Helmut Lang jeans, which were responsible for more than half of the brand’s revenues. In their trademark dark blue or black, the jeans were sold at more than 700 stores around the world. The decision to cut back production was in line with the dominant philosophy of building a designer label through expensive leather handbags and shoes and opening chic retail stores.

Lang said at the time the move would protect the exclusivity of his name. That was the mantra of the luxury industry circa 2000, as intoned by LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton and other companies.

But in reducing the production of Helmut Lang denim, Prada was in a sense killing the goose that laid the golden eggs. “This may have been good for the image, but maybe not good for the business,” Sozzani said.

The departure of the Helmut Lang, and the subsequent decline of the Helmut Lang brand, it is, together with the similar events at the Prada-owned Jil Sander, among the conspicuous failures of the recent Prada strategy of expansion. Perhaps, the retrenchment into the core of the Prada business it is needed?

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Katie with the Prada Bag

Friday, June 24th, 2005
By Manolo

Katie Holmes and her Prada Bag

Manolo says, here is the Katie Holmes with her Prada bag, and some unnamed man.

The Manolo and one of the Manolo’s many internet friends they have been looking for this bag with the purple croc trim in the stores and on the internet and have not been able to locate it.

Yes it is the Nylon and Leather Tote, but it has the desirable purple croc trim, rather than the black leather trim.

It is the opinion of the Manolo, yet to be confirmed, that this it is the pre-release of this bag, perhaps given to the Katie Holmes before it appears in the stores.

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