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Archive for February 23rd, 2005

More from the NY Times

Wednesday, February 23rd, 2005
By Manolo

Manolo says, here is another paean from the Times of the New York to the brilliance of the Miuccia.

People don’t give Miuccia Prada enough credit. And, no, that is not meant as a gag. Certainly few who follow these things are unaware that Ms. Prada, whose latest collection, shown on Monday, was greeted with hosannas by critics and retailers alike, more or less single-handedly keeps this so-called fashion capital on the map. Her ability to simultaneously mine the past and plumb the mood of the cultural present should, at this point, be considered uncanny.


“Even in a quietly beautiful collection like this one, she is like a car that sideswipes you and gives you a jolt,” said Julie Gilhart, the fashion director at Barneys New York. “She makes you think and reconsider and wonder if there isn’t a deeper play on what she’s doing.”

That is not to suggest that Ms. Prada gives short shrift to the commercial nature of her craft. “We will sell every single look in that show,” Ms. Gilhart added, offering to show this reporter an annotated notebook that numbered and marked off virtually the entire Prada runway show. “In my entire history of taking notes, I’ve never done that before.”

What makes that bit of retail minutiae interesting is that runway shows rely for effect on shapes and split-second impressions. Take a closer look and Ms. Prada’s other and more interesting ambitions open up to view. Like the German artist Anselm Kiefer – whose monumental “Seven Celestial Towers,” an installation of enormous stacked structures made of concrete, lead and shattered glass, was on view at a hangar on the outskirts of Milan until a week ago – Ms. Prada often plays games with accretion and destruction. Both scavenge the culture for metaphors and motifs and wrench them from their expected frame.

Manolo says, Wow! Even the Manolo he would hesitate before comparing the Miuccia to someone like , but now that the comparison it has been put forward, the Manolo he cannot but agree that perhaps, maybe, possibly it is apt.

It is no secret that the Manolo he is loathe to put too much intellectual or cultural weight onto fashion.

Yes, the Manolo he loves the fashion, he lives for the fashion (and the shoes!), but he knows that the clothes of the most of the current designers, they will not support much in the way of the scrutiny. Their clothes are disposable and should be treated as such, as the ephermeral notions and fads they are. They may look good, but they do not speak to more than the shallowest of our emotions or thoughts.

This, it is what it is. Not everything needs to be profound. Indeed, most of the time it is sufficient for an item to be merely pretty.

But, at the same of the times, SOMETHING must be profound. And in the world of the fashion that single something it is the Miuccia.

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