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Archive for February 22nd, 2005

More of the Photos

Tuesday, February 22nd, 2005
By Manolo

Prada, Milan 2005Prada, Milan 2005Prada, Milan 2005Prada, Milan 2005Prada, Milan 2005Prada, Milan 2005

Manolo says, Not all of these are exactly to the taste of the Manolo, but they are all nonetheless interesting.

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New York Times on the Milan Show

Tuesday, February 22nd, 2005
By Manolo

Manolo says, here is the pertinent excerpt from the review of Miuccia’s show in Milan from the Cathy Horyn in the Times of the New York.

The astonishing thing about Miuccia Prada’s fall collection is just how much it has in common with the rhythm of modern language, whether the verse of Ezra Pound or the chilling clarity of Elfriede Jelinek, the winner of the Nobel Prize in Literature in 2004, whose novel “Women as Lovers” presents marriage as the end of youth and the beginning for women of a death throe that will last through years of looking after men.

Like the two seamstresses in Ms. Jelinek’s novel, Ms. Prada does a woman’s work, and being a wife and mother she can relate to the sometimes faulty promises of marriage and what women tell themselves for seeking the love of a good man. But the real point of comparison, and it is not so far-fetched, is how Ms. Prada uses fashion – stupid, dull, witless fashion -to express the power of modernism.

For the last two seasons, Ms. Prada has offered clothes that seemed overlaid with history, tweeds embellished with trinkets and charms that were pretty but in their way feminine clichés. More surprising, her clothes did not adequately reflect her interest in contemporary architecture – the shops she and her husband, Patrizio Bertelli, have commissioned from Herzog & de Meuron or Rem Koolhaas, who was at her show tonight – or her support of contemporary artists.

Ms. Prada is aware of her responsibilities as a commercial designer; it is easier to sell clothes, as Ms. Jelinek might agree, that make women feel happy and contented rather than ambivalent and even potentially unnoticed. But there is no risk in that, and nothing that turns the fashion page, which is also her role as Milan’s sole agent of change.

Manolo says, this it is exactly what the Manolo has been trying to say in his humble, joke-filled blog, that the Miuccia she is the sort of designer who is the literate, thinking being. And her clothes they reflect her heightened sensibilities, and the way she is in tune with the concerns of this post-millennial age.

The Miuccia, she understands that we are now living in an age of seriousness, and that the adults, they should dress like the adults, not like the children. The Manolo he cannot but applaud this

Yet, others they are worried that the burdens of the adulthood, they weigh too heavily upon us. One of the Manolo’s many internet friends has anonymously left a very intelligent comment below. The Manolo he has copied it here for us to now consider.

My concern with Prada is the grim sensibility of it all, personified by these models. Is dressing adult always so sad? Can’t one look classic without showing that one is carrying the weight of world? Intellectuallism without light does not move us forward

Manolo says, this comment it is quite astute, and shows the sort of intellectual approach to the clothing that the Manolo he appreciates, yet, at the same of the time, the Manolo he does not agree with it in the case of the Miuccia.

Yes, the young models they are frowing, but this it is what the models they do on the runway. And yes, the clothes themselves, they are clothes of seriousness, and the blacks and the dark browns they predominate, but at the same of the time, they are not without color, and there are nods towards the humor.

The Manolo he does not accept the description of these clothes as “grim”, rather they are “serious”.

It is, as the Manolo hopes he himself proves, possible to be both happy and have the seriousness of purpose at one and the same times. These things they are not imcompatible, it is simply the matter of everything having the proper place and the proper time.

This is what the Manolo loves about this trend, and about this collection from the Miuccia, they are serious clothes. And the serious clothes allow us to be serious when the time it is proper to be serious.

Sadly this is the option that has for too long been foreclosed to us, as the designers they have focused on the frivolous.

P.S. Many thanks to the Manolo’s friend the Lisa for pointing him to this article.

Milan in the News

Tuesday, February 22nd, 2005
By Manolo

Manolo says, here’s two articles about the Miuccia’s show in the Milan. The first it is from the AFP.

Miuccia Prada conjured up a ready-to-wear collection for autumn-winter 2005-06 that had a decidedly couture feel and reminded the Milan fashion crowd that basic black is always chic.

Like British film director Alfred Hitchcock, the Italian designer — whose show capped Monday’s presentations — likes women who hide their passionate personalities beneath an icy veneer.

Her stone-faced models, sporting high heels and showing a bit of leg, cut a pure silhouette on the Milan catwalk that recalled the deceptively complicated couture designs of the legendary Spanish designer Cristobal Balenciaga.

Prada’s seemingly simple black and brown coats and dresses were in fact wonders of construction with straight or puffed out backs, narrow sleeves and nipped waists. Each was given a bit of volume with careful tucks and pleats.

Manolo says, this review it is pretty close to what the Manolo saw in this show, the retro feeling of the 50s and early 60s, and the strong influence of the Balenciaga.

Here is the second article from the Telegraph one that notes that the Miuccia she has decreed the return of the color black.

If there is one woman in the world who can state with conviction that “black IS the new black” it is Miuccia Prada.

She made that pronouncement after her stark and simple autumn/winter 2005/2006 collection at Milan Fashion week last night. No matter that she was wearing a white cotton shirt-dress with red high-heeled shoes at the time; perversity is part of Prada’s charm.

“Black is a very important colour and it is coming back. After a while you get fed up with colour and print,” she said. “Now it is time to be serious. Less fun, no frills. Last year we used fashion to escape from our problems. Now, we need to be more realistic and show ourselves to be more substantial.”

Manolo says, the Manolo he cannot but applaud this retrurn to the fashions of the adult.

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