The Helmut Lang Quits » Manolo's Prada Blog!






The Helmut Lang Quits

By Manolo

Manolo says, here is the article from the New York Times about the quitting of the Helmut Lang, who was, in addition to having his own line, the creative director at the Prada. The article it is filled with the talk of the business of fashion, but the Manolo he presents it here for this portrait of the Miuccia and her husband.

Prada, which took a controlling stake in the Helmut Lang brand in 1999, announced Mr. Lang’s resignation as creative director, which comes only two months after another Prada Group designer, Jil Sander, resigned from her label – for the second time. Associates of both designers said they quit for the same reasons: clashes over creative direction and frustrations with the financial support of Patrizio Bertelli, chief executive of Prada. Mr. Bertelli is married to the Prada designer Miuccia Prada.

[…]

Analysts who have followed Prada, which has repeatedly announced – and withdrawn – plans to go public, expressed some concern over Prada’s strong confidence in its ability to turn a profit at Helmut Lang. Similar faith in the potential of Ms. Sander’s label was offered after her first departure in 2000, but profits disintegrated.

“Prada has always had a very independent attitude,” said Gilbert W. Harrison, chairman of the investment bank Financo. “They evidently have not learned from their past experience. Mr. Bertelli is a very independent person, and his wife is just as independent. Their attitude is that they own this business and they’re going to do what they want with it.”

Others were less quick to paint Mr. Bertelli as the aggressor, noting that Mr. Lang also has a reputation for being stubborn, refusing to work with fabrics or techniques he deemed inferior even if lower costs would help the bottom line. During a peak moment of influence for the designer in the late 90’s, his decision to move his fashion collection from Paris to New York and to present it several weeks early created an industry-wide ripple as others followed his lead. Sales were as high as $100 million. But since selling to Prada, the Helmut Lang business has shrunk considerably, to $37 million in 2003, the company reported. “I always think it’s a challenge when the creative force of a company leaves his own brand,” said Ron Frasch, the chief merchant of Saks Fifth Avenue. “That said, it’s probably a more significant issue when the company has been commercially successful, versus when it has not. Obviously, Mr. Bertelli wouldn’t have done this if he didn’t think there was the potential to begin to diminish his losses.”

Manolo says, the Prada it is indeed as the Times says, very independent.







Comments are closed.







Disclaimer: Manolo the Shoeblogger is not Manolo Blahnik
Copyright © 2005; Manolo the Shoeblogger, All Rights Reserved





Manolo Likes!

Prada Shoes Prada Handbags





gucci, prada, fendi, versace

Forzieri.com

Auctions

Prada Auctions
Wedding Dress Auctions

























Categories